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posted 10/10/2012 1:42:00 PM by Patti E-mail: frame-ography@sbcglobal.net |
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I am wondering about stretching needle-art done on canvas. I usually use af foamcore and ss pins when stretching linen or other fabrics, but I''m not happy with the results when it''s done on canvas. I''ve laced them, but also not pleases with it. This is a small count canvas, not heavy needlepoint canvas. Any other suggestions? |
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posted 10/18/2012 4:08:00 AM by Louise Bradley E-mail: loubradley@bigpond.com |
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Sorry, I assumed it was a large needlework! The stretcher or strainer method is best for larger works. With smaller pieces you might try 8 ply rag board. If you don''t stock it bond 4 ply together using neutral ph pva or starch paste. Then lace the piece around that. I would allow enough open space around the stitched area for a spacer to separate the needlework from the glazing.
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posted 10/12/2012 1:20:00 PM by Patti
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What do I do if the frame is to come right up to the stitched area? No mat or open area showing around the stitching. These are often smaller pieces, and I''m not sure about using regular canvas stretcher bars on pieces that only measure 4x8 or comparable. Especially because of the depth needed to accommodate the stretchers. |
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posted 10/10/2012 4:44:00 PM by Louise Bradley E-mail: loubradley@bigpond.com |
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You could try stitching a washed cotton or polyester border around each side then lacing the piece over a sturdier support. I never use foam core for textile backings, it really is not very sturdy. If your textile is large you could prepare a strainer, cover it with sturdy archival board and rag board. (I use an archival double wall corrugated board and 4-py rag, with neutral ph pva.) Stretch your textile over this. Or cover the prepared strainer with fabric, (stapled on like a canvas,) and stitch your textile leaving a border of the support fabric if you want that as a design element. |
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